Monday, October 27, 2008

There's No Place Like London

This will be a long one. Bare with me. Lots to write about. (Author's note: Since I enjoy organizing, I have done so to this blog.)

Kate, Anna, and I had our first official European mini-break (American translation: "long weekend") this weekend. I asked for a holiday (American translation: a "day off from work") on Friday and on Monday morning so that we could fly into London on Thursday 23 October and fly back on Monday 27 October.

Thursday 23 October

Tired, weary, and extremely excited, we arrived at our hostel with just enough time to make our beds and to perform the necessary preparing for sleep rituals before hitting the sack.

Friday 24 October

  • Tower of London: Since we pay UK taxes, we were able to make a "Gift Aid Donation" (the taxes go back to the Tower of London instead of to the government), earning us unlimited free entry to the Tower for a year. (Anyone interested in going to the Tower?) We took a guided tour led by a retired Beef Eater who actually lives inside the fortress. William the Conqueror built the first structure in 1066, and kings throughout the ages have built additions to make the fortress stronger and more impenetrable. While the Tower is still one of the official palaces of the English monarch, Elizabeth does not lay her head to rest inside these walls. Instead, the buildings have been converted to museums. You have to get there early to avoid the long line at the crown jewels exhibit; it’s worth the early morning to see the 2 largest uncut diamonds in the world! The Tower was also the site for private executions; if you were a friend of the monarch-in-power (ie: Henry VIII's 2nd wife, Anne Boelyn), you may have been extended the privilege of not being executed in front of a crowd that paid to see your spilled blood. I must also admit that I cast a vote for thinking Richard III killed his 2 young nephews. (I’m a Shakespeare dork; I’ll admit it.)
  • Walking Tour: The same company who gives the really good walking tour in Edinburgh also has a walking tour in London, so we caught the afternoon one. We started outside the Tower of London; viewed the Tower Bridge and the London Bridge; heard about the great fire in 1666; saw The Monument, erected as 1) a symbol of London’s ability to rise again after the fire’s destruction and 2) a warning to the Catholics who were surely the cause of the massacre; learned about the Knights Templar and saw their church; and ended with a trip to the WW2 bomb-damaged RAF church.
  • China Town: We walked to SoHo for a family-style dinner at The Crispy Duck Chinese restaurant. Yum! On our walk there, an old black-and-white movie was playing in Trafalgar Square. How picturesque!


Saturday 25 October

  • National Portrait Gallery: The best ₤11 I spent was to see the Annie Liebowitz exhibit at the National Portrait Gallery. Seeing her work here and there in magazines and hearing her on talk shows in no way does justice to her talent. I got to see her exhibit as she designed it, complete with photographs of Nicole Kidman, Brad Pitt, Jamie Fox, Robert Dinero, Annie’s family (mom, dad, sisters, nieces, and children), and the documentation of Annie Liebowitz’s best friend’s battle with cancer and death. I couldn’t have cared less about the stale photographs of England’s royalty of past.
  • Tate Museum of Modern Art: I can now claim to have seen original works by Monet, Picasso, and Pollock, as well as a disturbing video by Paul McCartney. The main exhibit was a 4-story spider standing over 25-30 metal frame bunk-beds sprinkled with political thought books. Explain that one to me. My favorite part about this museum was leaving it. I appreciate modern art’s right to exist, but I appreciate it more easily while not trapped in a 5-story building full to the brim of such artwork.
  • The Millennium Bridge (“Wobbly Bridge”): Along with Bridget Jones, we walked on it. Alas, it did not wobble
  • Avenue Q: The second best purchase of the trip was a ticket to see Avenue Q in the West End. A personal review: an incredibly witty and entertaining musical not for the young or the easily offended; two thumbs up!
  • Picadilly Circus- We walked through Picadilly Circus after the show to see the sights and lights at night.


Sunday 26 October

There was an NFL game in Lodon on Sunday: the Saints v. the Chargers. I still don’t fully understand why two American football teams flew across the pond to play each other, but the Brits decked out in baggy jerseys seemed to appreciate it…

  • St. Paul’s Cathedral- We missed the notice to change our clocks back Saturday night, so when we thought we were rushed on our way into the city, we really had an extra hour to kill. After breakfast at the neighboring Starbucks, we went to worship at St. Paul’s, the only Anglican cathedral. History note: After the great fire, architect Sir Christopher Wren designed a new cathedral and a completely new layout for the city reminiscent of Paris. The designs were turned down by King Charles II because it was too Catholic. Wren redesigned a simple church and began to build. In the process, Wren got permission to make alterations to the cathedral, alterations that changed a simple Anglican church into the most beautiful building in the city. King James did not realize the drastic changes until travelling around the city one day. Disgusted, he ordered the cathedral to be demolished; as fate would have it, James lost his crown before his command was carried out.
  • Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, and Buckingham Palace: We saw them and took pictures.
  • Lunch with Lynn: Kate’s step-sister, Lynn, and her family live in London, and we met them for lunch in trendy Camden. They showed us around my new favorite bit of London, walked us through the market and down to the Loch. They also took us for ice cream at the best ice cream parlor this side of the Atlantic Ocean. Kate, Anna, and I liked Camden so much, we I roamed the streets all afternoon.
  • Westminster Abbey: When we visited the Abbey earlier in the day, we saw there was an organ concert that evening. We came back to attend the concert as a peaceful closure to three busy days in London. Note to all travelers: Learn to play the game. Many churches in Europe charge entry; while paying an entry fee is never top on a backpacker’s wish list, these churches and cathedrals really are worth a viewing. The solution is to join worship services on Sunday. You get a little sight-seeing and a little Jesus all in one.


Monday 27 October

We set our alarms for 3am so that we could leave our hostel by 3:25am to be at the bus stop by 3:50 am for the 4:00am bus to take us to the airport. I finished off today with a half-day at work. I’m fighting to keep my eyes open now.


London Backpackers Hostel

From experience at Brodie's Backpacking Hostel in Edinburgh, we learned that large co-ed dorms are the cheapest and are rather tolerable, so our room at London Backpackers was of such description. The room was choc-a-puck with 5 3-tiered bunk beds, but since we beat the weekend rush, these 3 lucky American girls all called dibs on bottom bunks. Our fifteen European backpackers smelled something fierce, leaving us gasping for fresh air by the time our alarms went off in the mornings. Stench aside,the hostel was very large and very nice. The kitchen was always crowded with a fun crowd and the internet was free (if you were willing to stand in a long line to use it). There were board games in the kitchen as well. We took advantage of Trivial Pursuit every night (oh the London night life…My co-workers did give me a hard time for not “going out” at night); our Genus Edition Trivial Pursuit of choice was of the British Persuasion, and answers to questions involved East and West Germany as well as the USSR. Entertaining.


Friday is my last day at the Scottish Council for Voluntary Organisations. I will be excited to start a new job (hopefully very soon), but I will be very sad to leave my SCVO friends.


Cheers.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Euro

Two weekends ago, fed up with our undeniably American wardrobe, my darling flatmates and I planned a trip to Glasgow. Correction: we planned a trip to Primark, a very cheap clothing store, in Glasgow. Despite the harassment I got from my co-workers for bypassing all cultural aspects of the largest city in Scotland, we did only see Argyle street (the main shopping district), and we did only go into Primark. I have never been so uncomfortable shopping for clothing in my entire life, but I must say I am proud of my purchases (including a pair of patterned tights and a pair of skinny jeans). We came out a little bit poorer but a little more Euro chic. Oh, I feel I must continue to boast about my fashion trip outside of my comfort zone by bragging about my new pair of cowboy boots. Here’s the thing about cowboy boots in Edinburgh: they have no practicality, but are rather very fashionable. The lack of practical use therefore removes the need for spurs and steel toes, which therefore lowers the cost significantly. I must also further my pat on the back by boasting that I wore skinny jeans out both Friday and Saturday nights and wore my boots as well on Saturday. I’m beginning to look like I fit in here instead of just feel that way.

I was asked to stay three weeks as a temp for the Scottish Council for Voluntary Services, but today marks the beginning of my fifth week here; they have asked me to remain through the end of October. I am working in membership services, filling in for Sarah, who has been on sick leave. Sarah will start back working part-time this week, so I am here to lighten her load. I really like the people I work with! I sit in the corner of the office with the networks team. I sit beside Paul, who sits beside Doug. On the other side of our desk are Sarah (who is to return to work this week), Margaret, and Jeanette. Behind us is our boss, Paul White, and catty-cornered to my left is Gordon, the head of membership. Now, this is only our corner of the office; there are easily 40 other people in our office. Jeanette is helping me plan my family’s trip for Christmas. She had holiday on Friday, so she spent some of her time searching for leaflets and pamphlets to various places I can take my parents and sister to visit for the day. Paul Hunter (who sits beside me) likes to intermittently offer bits of European/American history. The other Paul always asks how I am getting on and brought me a book to read about Scotland. John Ferguson, a journalist, likes to ask me questions about American culture (we bonded over the SNL Palin skits). The people here go out of their way to help me get settled. I really enjoy working here.

On that note, I have asked for a holiday this Friday and Monday morning; Kate, Anna, and I are going to LONDON! I am so very excited. We fly out on Thursday and fly back early Monday morning. More to come when I have more to write.

Cheers.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Drink the Beer and Not the Water

Our Highland tour was this past Saturday. We left at 8:45am and returned shortly after 5pm, so the trip was not a long one. Much of what we were to experience were very entertaining and well-told bits of Highland history from our tour guide and the beautiful scenery out the bus windows. Since I manage to get road sickness just by looking at a bus, my concentration was not out the windows but on the stories and the upcoming curves and bends in the mountainous roads. It rained the entire day, but our guide explained us to always expect rain in Scotland. That way, we will rarely be disappointed, and besides, if Scotland wasn’t pretty in the rain, no one would ever visit. She also pointed out the estate where Mary Queen of Scots was born and recounted her history for the group. I’ve heard Bloody Mary’s story more times than I can count (especially since Queen Elizabeth I is my favourite English queen!), but it was interesting to hear her history from the viewpoint of a Scot. The whole trying to take the English throne and ruthlessly killing Protestants parts were left out.

Our first stop was the William Wallace monument in Stirling. Our guide compared historical facts to bits and pieces of Braveheart, but overall, she said the movie was pretty accurate (for Hollywood, of course). The most disappointing discrepancy is that Wallace would not have worn a kilt; kilts are specific to the lowlands, so an ordinary highlander would not have sported such an ensemble. Just as we pulled into the parking lot at the bottom of the monument, Mel Gibson’s battle speech played over the speakers in our bus. Kate, Anna, and I finished the speech with the PC fight song, fitting since Saturday was PC homecoming. We hiked (and I do mean hiked) to the top of the mountain to see the monument itself. The view was beautiful!

Our next stop was to see Hamish, a very large Highland cow (apparently named after Shelley McKay Baynahm?). Kate was pretty excited to take pictures for David, her stepfather/a cattle farmer. Funny story: One tour guide used to do a trick where he would put a biscuit in his mouth and let Hamish eat it. Gross? It gets better. The tour guide fell very ill, and his doctor could not diagnose what was wrong with him. Not a cold. Not strep. Not mono. During one of his visits, the guide mentioned his work, and the doctor was curious to hear about the various stops the tour made. The guide was sure to tell his doc about his popular feeding trick with Hamish, and the doctor was quick to take one more test on his patient. Diagnosis: bovine herpes. Henceforth, the tour guides are no longer allowed to feed Hamish by putting biscuits in their mouths, and the tourists are advised not to kiss the cow.

Our final stop was the Glen Turret whiskey distillery. We got a tour of the facility and learned how whiskey (the national drink of Scotland) is made and what the difference is between single malt whiskey and a whiskey blend. Neato fact: At one point in the process, this very alcoholic beer sits in vats for several days, giving off huge amounts of carbon dioxide; distilleries bottle the CO2 and sell it to "fizzy drink" companies, ie: Coke and the famous Scottish IRN-Bru. The tour was finished with a taste of Famous Grouse whiskey and a trip to a room with a video and an interactive floor. When the film boasted Famous Grouse will cool you off when mixed with water, the floor became a stream that rippled where we stepped. When mentioning that the whiskey will warm you when served over ice, the floor turned into a frozen pond that cracked when we stomped on it. Entertaining…to say the least. Good tour.

I was disappointed in the ghost tour we took a few weeks ago (since there were no scary ghost stories included in the tour), so I jumped at the chance to go on another last night. Only… this tour wasn’t a scary ghost tour either. Kate, Anna, and I met Angela the Canadian on High Street for the Mary King’s Close tour of the Edinburgh crypts. It may not have been a scary tour, but it was really cool! If you ever find yourself in Edinburgh, take this tour. Here’s the gist. Until the 18th century, Edinburgh was densely populated in Old Town with very narrow streets and very tall buildings. When the city grew and built new buildings, they demolished the top levels of the buildings, allowing the rubble to fill the “closes” (these narrow streets that ran off High Street) and used the bottom stories as an already existing foundation for the new structures. So, much of the city is built on buildings! Our tour took us down to parts of Mary King’s Close, these houses and streets that exist below the city.

Our guide reminded us over and over again to drink the beer and not the water. Since women could not be hanged, they were drowned in Nor Loch, a manmade lake that used to surround the castle, as a means of execution. When people thought cats and dogs were the sources of the plague, all pets were drowned in Nor Loch. All the filth gathered on the streets—mud, household garbage, human waste, remains from slaughter houses, etc.—would eventually be washed down to Nor Loch. Since this lake was the main water source for the people of Edinburgh, it makes perfect sense why you would want to drink the beer and not the water. I suppose the city eventually realized the sheer filth of the lake did not do much to help the state of the city and its inhabitants, so it was eventually drained. The beautiful Princes Street Gardens now fills the former Nor Loch. It’s no wonder why the grass, flowers, and trees are so luscious there…

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Photos for your Enjoyment


http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2019870&l=3cfd0&id=49500008
arrival, walking tour, Calton Hill cemetery

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2020060&l=ced11&id=49500008
our flat, Calton Hill, Highland tour

Pictures I've uploaded so far. Includes our walking tour, Calton Hill Cemetery, and some other good stuff.

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Attack of the Bed Bugs

I think our flat has bed bugs. Kate, Anna, and I are covered in red, itchy bumps. We’ve been spraying bug spray religiously, so all fingers crossed, the bed bugs will vanish.

We had a touristy day this past Saturday. After our ghost tour last week, we were determined to revisit both the Calton Hill cemetery and the top of the hill during daylight hours. After our necessary Saturday morning errands, we headed towards the cemetery. A statue of none other than Honest Abe Lincoln stands right outside the tomb of David Hume. The Scottish believe that a soul must have some place to go once it dies in order to reach heaven. Abe served as a gateway (for lack of a better word) for the souls of Scottish-Americans who died in the American Civil War away from their homeland. David Hume’s tomb is etched with Bible verses. According to our tour guide, whom we dubbed “Eyebrows” for 2 very obvious reasons, even though Hume was an atheist, his children were not and wanted him to go to heaven. And so we have Bible verses on the most well-known atheist’s tomb.

Calton Hill looks down on Leith, the northeast area of the city and where I currently work. Three buildings are on the tip-top of the hill: an observatory, a monument to Admiral Nelson, and “The Shame.” 1) The observatory is no longer used as such; someone finally realized Edinburgh has too much light pollution, and the 80% cloud coverage doesn’t help much, either. 2) Admiral Nelson served during the Napoleonic Wars. After receiving orders to retreat, Nelson disobeyed and pressed forward, and his ship was victorious against the Spanish enemies. Legend has it that after hearing his orders, he looked into his telescope—with his BLIND eye—and announced that he saw no reason to retreat. His monument on Calton Hill looks like the mast of a ship, complete with a telescope on top. A ball is raised to the very top of the tower every day, and at exactly 1:00pm, the ball drops. (Note: A cannon is also shot from the castle at 1pm. Punctuality is important.) 3) The National Monument, my favourite structure, is built to be an Athenian-style acropolis; it looks like the Parthenon in Edinburgh and was supposed to be a nearly exact replica. BUT… half-way through building it, the Scottish government ran out of money for the project and simply stopped. So, ½ of an Athenian acropolis, now nicknamed “The Shame,” adorns the top of the hill. The Shame is apparently a popular place for teenagers to drink excessive amounts of whiskey and is also the location of the annual Beltane Fire Festival.

Our Saturday was completed with trips to the Writers Museum and the Edinburgh Castle and finally to The Tron on Hunter Square (quickly becoming one of our favourite pubs) with our Canadian friend, Angela, to see our British friend, Mark, and his band, White Heath. (Good show; enjoyed by all.) We stopped for cookies before heading home, and as a result, we had to run like the wind to barely catch the last 35 bus. Good times and good cookies.

PC homecoming is this weekend. I must admit I am kind of disappointed to be missing my first homecoming as an alum; however, I am even more excited about our weekend’s plans than I am disappointed about what I am missing back in the states. We are going on a bus tour of the HIGHLANDS… including a boat tour of Loch Ness. Maybe I’ll see Nessie; I’ll have my camera ready just in case.